Goa. Carnival. Easter. Christmas. New Years Eve. Music Festivals. Raves. Destination weddings. That pretty much sums up an outsider’s idea of festivities in Goa. It’s when they come in hordes. Yuppies, puppies, hippies and all the rest. The place is awash with more tourists than Goans at such times, and festivities are geared to engage the visitors. Then comes June…
Rainy, off season. Lush. Beautiful, quiet and most of all, authentic. It’s when #Goa is left to the Goans. And they take to the streets to celebrate a festival that is typical of their Portuguese heritage – San Juan, the birth of John the Baptist, the prophet who foretold the coming of Jesus, and later baptized him.
Kopel made with palm leaves and Birds of Paradise
Revellers outdoing each other with weighty Kopels made from fruits & veggies
Little girl wondering when she can eat the fruit on her head :)
Decorated floats pulling in to the banks of Chapora River
Check out my Kopel!
People gathered in front of St. Anthony Church, Siolim
People first started celebrating #SanJuan or #SaintJohn in Goa for over 150 years ago. Believers from various villages first started gathering at #Siolim (North Goa), in front of the St Anthony Church to celebrate this day. Soon the festivities gathered momentum and decorated boats would row up the Chapora River, much to the delight of the revelers. More and more people converged over the years and the revelry became more wide scale. Slowly, local influences seeped in and in addition to Saint John, the festival also became a celebration of the #monsoon and Mother Nature.
It is on this one day, June 24, that the picturesque villages suddenly burst alive with color. People, young and old, can be seen milling around on scooties, cycles, on foot and in cars. Many wear funky handmade headgears called #Kopel, made with local fruits, vegetables, twigs, leaves or anything that comes from nature and grows in the rain. It’s a test of ones creativity and each person does splendid job. These are always made, never sold.
St Anthony Church, where the first San Juan celebrations in Goa took place over 150 years ago
Red & Yellow!
Local boy posing with Portuguese femme fatales
One the participating teams in a float/ boat competition
People gathering to watch the floats at Chapora River
Three generations of a family celebrating together
People gather in villages and move in groups from house to house, jumping in people’s wells and then collecting bags of goodies. Some torch straw dummies representing the baptism of Saint John and the death of sin. There’s nothing serious about the affair. The party is a celebration of the sacred and the profane. It’s all about fun, games, laughter, bonhomie and good times. There is plenty of music, singing, dancing, and endless consumption of #feni. Anyone can join in. As the day progresses, various groups make their way to Siolim or other similar places where concerts, food, friendly boat races, and competitions such as Best Kopel & Miss Rain Queen await them!
Cut from the same cloth :)
Mamma Mia
Kopel/ Headgear that matches the shirt
Flaming flowers from the tree
Mom & daughter with an entire orchard on their heads
Floats pulling over at the Chapora River
San Juan is most definitely Goa’s liveliest street festival, yet it remains quite unknown outside of Goa. And one can only be grateful for that. If you get the chance, try to experience it before too many people get wind of it. And steer clear of the San Juan celebrations organised inside hotels. Just talk to the locals and join a group of merrymakers. They are very welcoming. Or get on the streets and follow the happy, party loving crowd with crazy headgears. Do carry your own #feni and contribute to the kitty if asked. To feel more at home, make your own headgear (see images for ideas) and wear it with your brightest clothes. Enjoy. Live. Laugh. And party!
All content and image Copy Rights Reserved by Bindiya Murgai & Soul Sherpa
