Ancient Himalayan Practices That Are Still Alive

This is Tsering Tsendup. He’s 58 years old and lives in a really remote settlement in Khale, which is a good three hours walk from the nearest village. There are only 3-4 houses here and these are surrounded by pasture land in the summer and heavy snow in the winter.

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Tsering is married and has three children. A son and two daughters. He’s a farmer but since farming can only happen for 3-4 months in Spiti, due to the intense cold and snow, all that he grows is for their own consumption. In the winter, like most Spitians, Tsering and his wife do weaving and brew homemade liquor to keep themselves warm. Life is based on sustenance rather than profit, like it was thousands of years ago, and as a result, finances are meager. But like with most people in Spiti, what they lack in monies is hugely superceded by their wealth of human character. Nowhere else have I ever met people even remotely dignified, generous, ethical, spiritual and kind. Their hearts are like the open sky, and if they have just one piece of bread and a cup of butter tea, they are happy to share it with you. Tsering and his family are just the same too.

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Tsering’s elder daughter is in college, while the younger one is a Bhuddhist nun or chomo, in Dharamsala. His son is a farmer, just like him and is now married and living in his village.

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Photo: Tsering Bodh

Edited by: Bindiya Murgai

Spiti has various familial traditions that have been carried on for centuries. For example, the eldest son gets all the land, the eldest daughter, all the jewelry, and at least one of the others are sent to join a monastery or pursue religious practice. The others are educated, if the family has the means to do so. Also, when the eldest son gets married, his wife and children technically become the new occupants of the ancestral or parent’s home, known as the Khangjen. All the farming land also becomes soley theirs. The parents and other elders then move to a much smaller house called the Khinjung. Something like an ancient version of a retirement or old peoples home, but just for the family. Unfortunately, Tsering and his wife have not been able to muster enough resources to build their Khinjung still. They are hoping to do so this summer, failing which they’ll move in with their elders for a while.

If you are reading this, send Tsering Tsendup and his wife, Tsering Oksal your best wishes and blessings so they can have their own home this summer.

Currently, they are in Kaza, lending a hand to their relatives, who are running short on manpower. That’s where these pictures were taken. Here, Tsering is making rope out of sheep wool. Neither the tradition of making rope at home, nor the rudimentary techniques used to make it, have changed over centuries. In fact, what binds ancient times to now, is that this exceptionally strong rope is as useful to the Spitians today as it was in earlier times. And it continues to be made at home.

Trivia: Tsering is a Tibetan name that means ‘Long Life.’ It’s a popular name for both boys and girls as it is gender neutral.

Friday, 21 March 2014